Fashion thinking: 3D simulation software, cognition, and critical thinking

Abstract

This dissertation comprises three articles that collectively explore the cognitive and critical thinking processes involved in fashion design within virtual environments, with a particular focus on 3D simulation software. The first article establishes the theoretical foundation by introducing the THREAD framework, which highlights the integration of critical thinking and design cognition, emphasizing the hybrid nature of digital and physical workflows. THREAD identifies seven key tenets of design cognition and critical thinking: problem-solving, reflexivity, individual agency, tacit knowledge, spatial visualization, haptic memory, and creativity. The second article presents an empirical study investigating how undergraduate fashion design students engage in critical thinking while using 3D simulation software utilizing think aloud protocol methodology. Findings reveal that students exhibit reflexivity, creativity, and independent decision-making but often struggle to balance digital autonomy with deeper design analysis. The flexibility of CLO 3D fosters risk-taking yet sometimes leads to reactive rather than strategic choices. The third article examines the cognitive processes of fashion designers working in virtual environments through semi-structured artifact interviews. Key insights include the role of tacit knowledge in developing design intuition, the enhancement of spatial visualization through real-time adjustments, the engagement of haptic memory despite the absence of physical touch, and the impact of digital tools on creativity and exploration. Notably, gamification within CLO 3D encourages experimentation and risk-taking but necessitates structured reflection to maintain design depth. Synthesizing these findings, the dissertation identifies three overarching insights. First, 3D fashion thinking is inherently hybrid, blending physical and digital processes. Second, designers must develop novel cognitive strategies to adapt to digital materiality. Third, gamification is reshaping creativity within virtual design environments. Through this research, the original THREAD framework has been revised to incorporate new dimensions of virtual fashion thinking. The concept of haptic memory has been expanded to include material perception, recognizing the cognitive strategies designers employ to assess digital representations of materials. Creativity is now understood as inherently linked to playful exploration, emphasizing the role of gamified experimentation in fostering design innovation. Emotional and motivational engagement has been introduced as a crucial factor, highlighting the psychological dimensions that sustain creative momentum in virtual design. Reflexivity has been refined into two distinct levels: reactive reflexivity, which involves immediate, real-time adjustments, and strategic reflexivity, which encompasses deeper, conceptual design analysis. Additionally, perceptual adaptation has been identified as a key cognitive shift required when transitioning from physical to virtual workflows, addressing the need for designers to interpret digital materials without tactile feedback. The research contributes to the evolving discourse on virtual fashion education and practice, offering insights into how designers navigate and innovate within emerging digital spaces.